2450 €  |  guide:client ratio is strictly 1:1

The first two days are used for the approach to the hut and for climbing a 4,000-meter peak in the area, with the purpose of acclimatization. The goal of acclimatization is to prepare the body to function at higher altitude, which is especially important on the ascent of the Matterhorn, where fast and efficient movement on exposed terrain is essential. A typical acclimatization tour is the traverse of the Breithorn peaks from East to West, with an overnight stay at the Guide della Val d’Ayas hut (3,420 m) or the Guide del Cervinio hut (3,480 m) on the Italian side of the massif. Two easy days near the cable car offer a great introduction to high-altitude climbing without too much effort. The highest summit of the traverse is the Western Breithorn (4,116 m), from which an exceptional view opens up toward our main goal – the Matterhorn. There are many options for quality acclimatization in the area. We choose a region with stable weather and good conditions. And perhaps you have a personal wish to climb a specific peak that could serve as acclimatization?

On the third day, after lunch, we start in Zermatt, from where the Matterhorn looks nearly impossible to climb. Overhanging walls and exposed faces on all sides. We take the gondola up to Schwarzsee (2,583 m), from where we begin the roughly two-hour hike to the Hörnlihütte (3,260 m). The newly renovated hut, located just a stone’s throw from the beginning of the ridge, is the starting point of the climb. We use the afternoon for rest and planning for the following day.

The fourth day is when everything becomes real. Around 4:00 a.m. we have breakfast in the hut, gear up completely, rope up, and wait for the hut keeper to open the door. This usually happens around 4:30. The route initially follows the crest of the ridge, then moves slightly into the south face, where route-finding becomes a bit more demanding. If everything goes smoothly, we reach the Solvay bivouac (4,003 m) with the first rays of sunlight. From there, we can already see the "head of the mountain", which from the valley looks almost overhanging. In good conditions, the ascent to this point is done without winter equipment. We only need it for the last 300 meters, where snow and ice are always present. The Matterhorn (4,478 m) has two summits – the Swiss and the Italian. Although the Swiss one is slightly higher, the summit cross stands exactly in the middle, which is also where we are headed. A moment of complete satisfaction above the vertical walls, combined with views of the surrounding mountains. The descent follows the same route and includes several rappels and down-climbing. From the hut back to the valley typically takes 8 to 10 hours. We return to the valley the same day.

Additional tour options:

• Experienced mountaineers can acclimatize on their own. In that case, we cover only the ascent of the Matterhorn. The price in this scenario is 1,450 € + expenses (train and gondola passes, and hut accommodation).

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