Spodnji Rokav, Potočnik-Tominšek route
An amazing outing on the sunny side of Vrata valley. Route folows an obvious system of gullies and ledgeds to reach the top of a solitary peak of Spodnji Rokav.
Slovenian route (possible to combine with ski touring)
550 € | 1 client
380 €/person | 2 clients
Price includes guiding and climbing equipment rent.
We start the from the parking lot at the end of the Vrata Valley. For a short while, we follow a gravel road that winds through several switchbacks and ends in the middle of a large clearing on the southern slopes below Spodnji Rokav. We continue up the clearing to Suhi plaz and follow it to the wall, where we gear up for climbing. The route follows a system of gullies and ledges which, in winter conditions, transform into enjoyable climbing on not-too-steep terrain. The crux is a short traverse on good holds, which in a good winter is usually completely buried under snow. The summit of Spodnji Rokav (2500 m) is surprisingly spacious compared to its neighboring peaks and offers an excellent view of the Triglav North Face, Stenar, Škrlatica, and many surrounding mountains.
The normal descent begins with a few steps along the west ridge toward Škrlatica, from where we rappel into the amphitheater between Škrlatica and the Rokav ridge, known as Kotli. We walk to the back of the amphitheater and climb to the saddle between Visoki and Srednji Rokav, after which a long descent past Bivak II brings us back to the starting point.
For a better feel of the tour, you can watch this video I recorded during a solo ascent of the route in very dry conditions. From the summit of Spodnji Rokav, I continued along the ridge to Srednji Rokav.
| Grade | Lenght | Duration (car-to-car) | Best time |
| II/III | 700 m | 8 - 10 h | January - April |
Additional tour options:
Extend the tour from Spodnji Rokav over to Srednji Rokav and all the way to the top of Visoki Rokav. The ridge section between the summits is significantly more challenging both in terms of route-finding and climbing, which is why this extension is suitable exclusively for a 1:1 guide-to-guest ratio. (+150 €).

... there is a lot of other alpine climbing areas in Slovenia!
There are many other walls and winter climbing routes available in Slovenia, which are no less interesting than the one presented above. I have listed some of them here. For other wishes, I invite you to contact me.






