950 €  |  guide:client ration is strictly 1:1

Before climbign north face of Špik, we first climb a preparatory route together in the surrounding area. This is a shorter climb with difficulties very similar to those of the Direct Route. The purpose of the preparatory climb is to make sure, that belaying and climbing abilities are at a sufficiently high level. An escape from the north face of Špik is, after all, quite an unpleasant matter.

The North face of Špik, with its 900 meters, is one of the most demanding walls in the Julian Alps. Climbing tours aiming for any route in Špik’s north face begin at the end of the gravel road above the abandoned ski slope in Martuljek. A marked trail leads from the car toward the Špik Bivouac — a charming little hut perched on the edge of a large plateau, with Špik, the Frdamane police, and Rušica towering above. After about an hour of walking, upon entering the plateau, we leave the marked path and continue off-trail to the base of the climb.

The lower half of the wall is more moderate and technically undemanding, but it keeps us busy with orientation. We first scramble up a steep gully with smooth slabs, then follow a worn path through dwarf pine to the top of Rušnata Glava. From here, about 300 meters of easier climbing take us to the Dibona Ledge, where the face turns vertical. The route to the summit follows a large dehidral in good rock. No single section stands out in difficulty, but several pitches are rated V+/5c, requiring endurance from the climber. Just below the top of the wall, the route connects with the West ridge, which we follow to the summit. We descend through the seemingly endless Kačji Graben.

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